Before doing any service or maintenance on any machine, follow all lockout procedures. This should include:

1. Disconnect the electrical power supply.
2. Relieve the pressure from the hydraulic system (check the pressure gauge on the power unit to make sure it reads zero).
3. If servicing the lift in the up position, make sure it is securely on the safety pins.
4. Mechanically secure any part of the machine that may shift while doing maintenance.

• Check all fasteners for tightness and tighten as required (refer to maintenance checklist).
• Check for hydraulic motor and fluid leaks and repair immediately.
• When disconnecting and reconnecting hydraulic lines, make sure the O-ring seal is in its proper seat. These can become unseated during the re-assembly process resulting in hydraulic leaks.

LIFT ASSEMBLY

The lift wheels should remain in contact with the lower frame uprights (See Figure 1). These will need to be periodically monitored and adjusted to ensure they stay in contact.

Return the lift to the home position and check to be sure it is level. Make sure the carriage entrance end is on the same plane as the tier table discharge end. Adjust the lift set down bolts on the entrance end of the lift if necessary. Place a 4-foot level on the angle tracks under the clamps on the discharge end of the lift (See Figure 2).

Now check the level, and if necessary, adjust the discharge end set down bolts to make the lift level. Also place the level on the lift carriage across the discharge end and adjust the set down bolts if required. Do not level the carriage plate lengthwise. The carriage is manufactured with a slight taper and will not read level (See Figure 3). Tighten the jam or full nuts to keep the set down bolts in position. The set down bolts should not have to be readjusted as long as they remain tight.

Adjust the carriage upright wheels until they come in contact with the upright. The wheel bolts may need to be slightly loosened. Do not over adjust one side or the other. Tighten the adjusting bolt nut and the wheel bolt nut when finished. The wheel should turn by hand with a slight drag. Failure to keep the wheels in contact with the uprights will cause the lift to rock during operation. This will chip product and cause the lift cylinders to wear prematurely.

When a wheel cannot be adjusted in, due to the lack of slot available, replace it. With the lift in the home position, replace one wheel at a time making sure that wheel is touching the Cuber upright, but still turns with a slight drag after the wheel bolt is tight.

If the lift cylinders are leaking, rebuild or replace them.

The Cuber lift chains are designed to keep the lift operating in a level position. These should be kept tight. Do this by tightening the adjusting bolts on the upper frame of the Cuber with the lift in the home position. The chains should be plumb when finished. If they are not plumb, move the adjusting bolt in the slot provided in the upper frame.

Grease the idler sprocket shafts located on the bottom of the lift (See Figure 4). Put the lift on the safety pins. Grease both ends of both shafts. Check the two sprockets and the chain and replace if necessary.

The lift carriage chains should be adjusted when they begin to sag over the carriage area in the home position. The lift carriage chains are tightened by removing the chain covers, located on the clamp end of the Cuber lift. Slightly loosen the idler sprocket bolt and the adjusting bolt jam nut. Adjust the chains equally, but do not over tighten. Now tighten the sprocket bolt and the adjusting bolt nut. Replace the guard.

The lift carriage motor chain is tightened by first placing the lift on the safety pins. Now, loosen the motor adjusting bolt jam nut and the motor plate mounting bolts. Adjust the chain making sure the motor is square with the adjoining drive sprocket. Now tighten the motor plate and the adjusting bolt jam nut.

Grease the three drive shaft bearings. On some model Cubers, the dirt cover and/or the drive shaft guard may need to be removed to gain access to the grease fittings.

Inspect the 8 idler sprockets, drive sprockets, bearings, and chain, and replace if necessary (See Figure 5). If the motor leaks, rebuild or replace it. Replace the guard and dirt cover when finished.

CUBER CARRIAGE

Inspect the lift carriage camrols for wear. When replacing the carriage camrols, support the carriage and replace one at a time.

Also inspect the side thrust camrols for wear, and replace if necessary. With the carriage in the home position, the camrols should be in contact with the carriage track. If not, use the slots provided in the camrol mounting brackets to accomplish this.

Finally, check the chain guide for wear. When replacing the guide, the carriage chain must be disconnected at the connecting link. Remove the old chain guide and feed the chain through the new guide. When reattaching the chain, make sure it did not jump the sprocket on the carriage drive shaft. This will result in the carriage being out of square.

GATE

Grease the gate bearings and the cylinder arms. The cylinder arms have a bushing and they must be replaced if worn (See Figure 6).

If the gate cylinders are leaking, rebuild or replace them. The gate cylinder mounting brackets must be kept tight. They also have bronze bushings and will need replacing if worn.

Check the block gate arms to make sure they remain tight. The bikon shrink rings require 30 foot pounds of torque (See Figure 7). A 6mm Allen wrench is required to

check and tighten the rings. If a bikon ring slips in the gate arm, the rings will have to be re-adjusted. With the gate in the down position, level, and the cylinder in the extended position, tighten the bikon ring. If the gate has gate positioning, check the cylinders for leaks and rebuild or replace them.

CLAMPS

The bushings in the clamp tube guide housings should be replaced when the clamps begin to sag. Failure to replace worn bushings will result in damage to the clamp guide rods. To replace the bushings, remove the guide housing from the lift side tube. The clamp should be in the home position. Remove only one guide housing at a time. The bushing is held in place by a snap ring. Remove the snap ring, and press the bushing out. The inner snap ring will not have to be removed. Press the new bushing up against the inner snap ring and re-install the outer snap ring. Bolt the guide housing back in position. The clamp housing should be in the same position as it was before removal.

If the clamp cylinders are leaking, rebuild or replace them.

TIER TABLE (on some models)

The tier table chain is tightened on the entrance end of the table. Loosen the four bolts under the idler assembly and the adjusting bolt jam nut. Tighten the adjusting bolt to tension the chain. Retighten the four idler bolts and the jam nut. Replace the idler sprocket, and chain if worn.

Check the motor for leaks and rebuild or replace if necessary. Check the drive sprockets, and the chain and replace if necessary (See Figure 7).

To tighten the motor chain, loosen the over hung load adapter bolts and the adjusting bolt jam nut. Tension the chain by using the adjusting bolt. Make sure the motor is parallel with the drive shaft. Tighten all the bolts and the jam nut. Grease the two bearings on the drive shaft.

The tier pusher carriage assembly has two different camrols that may need replacing if worn. To access the camrols, unbolt the chain attachment from the carriage and remove the carriage stop located on the entrance end of the tier table. Also, unbolt the pusher assembly. Then remove the carriage and replace the camrols. When reassembling the pusher, be sure that it is level and has approximately 1 inch of clearance between the wear plates and the channel.

The wear plates can be replaced by removing the mounting bolts located under the tier table. Be sure to grind the new portion of the bolts that are above the wear plates after new plate installation.

CUBE TABLE

Raise the lift and insert the safety pins. Inspect the four rollers that have bearings, two are located on the entrance end and two on the discharge end of the cube table. To replace the rollers, back the roller rod retaining set screws out. There are two set screws located on the ends of each roller. The remaining rollers are supported by camrols.

If there is a pallet dispenser or a pallet and block dispenser attached to the Cuber, the idler sprockets are located in the cube table frame. Check the sprockets and the pallet dispenser chain for wear and replace if required. The chain track can also be replaced at this time if necessary (See Figure 8).